Polignano a Mare: Beyond the Postcard

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Polignano a Mare is both a blessing and a paradox for Puglia. It has become the region’s most iconic image—an emblem of southern Italian beauty—but too often, visitors treat it like a quick photo stop. They arrive, admire its famous cliffside views, snap a few pictures and move on, never fully connecting with its vita lenta—its slow-paced, soulful rhythm—or with the people who embody it. And yet, this town deserves more. Especially outside of the crowded summer months, Polignano reveals a different face: one that is quieter, more authentic and deeply rewarding.

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The Iconic Cliffs and Hidden Corners

When we picture Polignano, our minds go straight to the dramatic cliff overlooking the Adriatic Sea—where, miraculously, homes seem to have been carved from stone itself, clinging to the rock face with defiant grace. There’s the historic bridge built over the ancient Via Traiana, spanning the Lama Monachile gorge, which serves as the dramatic stage for the Red Bull Cliff Diving competition each year. And then, of course, there are the panoramic viewpoints—each more breathtaking than the last—that appear suddenly, around a corner, as if the sea were constantly revealing itself anew.

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A Gateway to Lesser-Known Treasures

But Polignano is more than the sum of its iconic landmarks. It’s also an excellent starting point for exploring the quieter corners of the region. Today, I’ll take you on a little detour to lesser-known places, far from the crowds. Whether by car, bicycle or motorbike, let’s head north.

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Costa Ripagnola: The Coastal Chessboard

Shortly after leaving Polignano on the SS16, just past the hamlets of San Vito and Cala San Giovanni, look to your right. A postcard-worthy view opens up: rolling green meadows meet the blue of the sea, and scattered across the landscape are rudimentary stone trulli—ancient agricultural shelters laid out like a chessboard. This is Costa Ripagnola, also known as the Costa dei Trulli, a coastal stretch of land locals are fighting to preserve as a public natural park. Though much of it is private property, you can access the area through one of the many breaks in the traditional dry-stone walls. Try navigating to Cala Fetente—and keep it between us that I told you.

 

San Vito and the Inland Route

Returning to San Vito, take the provincial road towards Conversano. As you drive inland, you’ll pass Terre di San Vito, a family-run wine estate offering tastings and bottles of local wine and olive oil—perfect for a short and flavorful break. Continue through the countryside and watch for an unexpected feature just before you reach Conversano: a depression in the ground known locally as the “lake” of San Vito. These are actually karst basins that fill with rainwater only sporadically. There are twelve in the area, but the one in Sassano is the only one reliably full.

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Hidden Heritage: Santa Caterina d’Alessandria

A little farther along the road, you’ll spot a small, almost hidden church: Santa Caterina d’Alessandria. This elegant 15th-century rural chapel, protected by FAI (Italy’s National Trust), is unlike any other in the region. Built with a unique four-apse cruciform layout supporting a hemispherical dome, its soft curves and symmetry contrast beautifully with the raw, untamed countryside around it.

 

Conversano: Gelato and Ancient Towers

Soon after, you’ll arrive in Conversano. Stop for a gelato—''Caffè dell'Incontro'' makes one of the best in town—and, if you’re up for a walk, head towards the Torre di Castiglione, a fortified medieval tower located between Conversano and Putignano. The view from the top is unforgettable. The surrounding village ruins date back to the Bronze Age, were re-inhabited during the Middle Ages, and were finally abandoned around the 1500s. Today, it’s a peaceful, almost sacred place where history, nature and silence coexist.

 

Triggianello and the Tradition of Fornello

Continue on to Triggianello, a small village caught between Conversano and Polignano a Mare, at the junction with Castellana Grotte (by the way, don’t miss the caves there if you’ve never visited). Triggianello was founded in 1878 by landowner Saverio De Bellis, who built the first houses for his workers and named the village Villanova De Bellis. Nowadays, Triggianello is known for its summer beer festival and its traditional butcher shops. In the evenings, the “fornello” comes to life—a rustic, communal grill where meat is slow-cooked to perfection. This culinary tradition, possibly of Turkish origin, leaves the meat juicy and beautifully golden. An unmissable local experience.

 

Contrada Virbo and the Soul of Panzerotto

From here, you can easily reach the rural districts (contrade) of Monopoli. One, in particular, stands out in my memory: Contrada Virbo. Before the pandemic, it hosted a lively and much-loved festival dedicated to panzerotto, the deep-fried, golden crescent of dough filled with mozzarella and tomato. It’s the soul food of every Apulian, and I still dream of it when I’m away.

 

A Seaside Farewell: Swimming Spots Near Polignano

And now, if the season is right, what better way to end the day than with a swim and a glass of cold rosé?

You’re spoiled for choice. You could return to Polignano and relax at one of my favorite swimming spots: Port’Alga, a charming and rustic old fishing port. Or, you could continue south towards Monopoli. Locals love Cala Verde, especially in the early morning when you can still find a peaceful spot. Or, for the more adventurous, there’s Cala Tre Buchi—a hidden gem made up of three little coves carved into the rock, best reached by foot.

 

The Real Beauty: A Feeling Called Vita Lenta

And so our journey around Polignano a Mare ends—at sunset, perhaps, with salt still clinging to your skin. It’s good to see the famous sights, of course. But never forget: Puglia isn’t just a postcard. It’s a feeling. A rhythm. A state of mind called vita lenta.

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